In June 2001 I left San Diego to begin a journey that would take me to Tanzania, Africa to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. At 19,344 feet, Kilimanjaro is the highest mountain in Africa and one of the highest volcanoes in the world. The lure for me to climb this famous mountain was irresistible, and the trek even more attractive: With the right preparation, you can walk all the way to the summit without ropes or technical climbing experience.

In preparation for this huge endeavor, I climbed to the summit of Mount Whitney (14,495 feet) four days before I left for Africa. Mt. Whitney is the highest mountain in the 48 continental United States, and instilled in me the confidence to climb Kilimanjaro.

After arriving in Nairobi, Kenya I traveled to Moshi on a six-hour bus ride and met the 15 other hikers who would also be climbing Kilimanjaro. Lying just south of the equator, Kilimanjaro is also the highest free-standing mountain in the world. On a clear day, it can be seen from more than 160 kilometers away—its famous peak always vivid, covered in ice and snow, immortalized by Ernest Hemingway in "The Snows of Kilimanjaro."

My trek followed the Marangu route, staying in mountain huts and involving six walking days. My plan was to take my time to acclimatize, giving me the best chance of reaching the top. Each day was extremely varied as we passed through several climatic and vegetation zones en route to the summit. I spent anywhere from five to seven hours walking each day except on the summit day when I walked about 16 hours.

My group and I drove on the first day to the National Park Marangu Gate at 6,400 feet altitude to begin our hike up the mountain. I was extremely excited and on this first day I hiked along a rocky path through lush rainforest with lichens and bright ferns, huge trees and tiny colorful flowers and monkeys in trees. The ground was wet and muddy. After five hours I arrived at Mandara hut situated close to the Maundi Crater at an altitude of 9,000 feet.

I woke early the second day, left the rainforest and started up a path through open moorland and alpine meadow. We climbed over 12,000 feet, and I started to feel the effects of altitude; however, my plan was to go very slow and hike at the back of the pack. Our mountain guide, who was from Moshi ,the base camp town of Kilimanjaro, was a very peace-loving man who spoke softly and exuded a sense of peace within him. His name was Godliving and I enjoyed speaking to him about life in Africa. Godliving made sure that we took time and had plenty of rest stops, allowing many opportunities to take in the views. As we approached a place called Podocarpus Hill, the scenery changed again -- rocky volcanic ravines were covered with dense shrubbery, and giant lobelia and many other wild flowers are prevalent. Fog moved in and we arrived at Horombo Hut (12,340 feet) that afternoon.

On the third day I built in extra time to acclimatize, so I spent half of the day hiking up to the Saddle at 14,500 feet and was treated to a spectacular view of Mawenzi peak on Mt. Kilimanjaro. I came back down to Horombo hut where I spent the rest of my day resting and socializing with other climbers.

I woke up the fourth day with the sun rising dramatically from behind Mawenzi peak, lighting up the sea of clouds that shrouds the lower reaches of the mountain. As I continued ever higher, past huge cactus-like groundsel, we reached the last spring water available on the mountain. I had to rely on my own to retrieve water. Breathing became difficult, but I felt great and walked slowly.

Climbing above 14,000 feet, we had clearer views of Kibo and the lunar landscape of the Saddle where hardy  vegetation survives amid the sand and rocks. The air temperature started to change dramatically and strong winds whipped up a wicked snowstorm as we continued across the plateau. At 3 p.m. I reached Kibo hut at the base of Kibo peak. As I was trekking through the blazing snowstorm, I couldn't help but think of Ernest Hemingway's description in "The Snows of Kilimanjaro": "As wide as all the world, great high and unbelievable white in the sun, was the square top of Kilimanjaro."

The air was considerably cooler at Kibo once the sun dropped, and temperatures fell to below freezing. As the sun went down I was also treated to the first solar eclipse of the new millennium -- the day was June 21 -- and the timing could not have been more perfect: I was on the highest mountain in Africa.

My fifth day was the most important day on the glorious mountain. I set off in darkness to climb the summit at midnight, walking up a steep slope, past icy crevasses and giant boulders. I couldn't see anything from my flashlight but snow and the beautiful stars in the sky. For the next six and a half hours I continued walking  in below-freezing temperatures, intent upon reaching Gilman's Point on the rim of the crater. At times I was only able to walk for 10 steps before I had to stop and rest. These hours were spent thanking God for the marvelous blessings in my life as I realized how grateful I was for the opportunity to climb Kilimanjaro.

At 6:30 a.m. I reached Gilman's Point, the most spectacular view in Africa where the whole of East Africa seems to spread out below you. From Gilman's Point I continued with the seven other remaining people from my group around the crater rim to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa at 19,344 feet. As we set off from Gilman's we were told but Uhuru Peak was 200 feet away, but that it would take 2 hours to reach because of the high altitude. I closely followed Godliving and was the first one from my group to reach Uhuru Peak.

On Friday, June 22, 2001 at 9:13am I was on the top of Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest point on the continent of Africa. I broke down in tears, in part because of exhaustion, but also in the realization that my dream was fulfilled.

After taking pictures we descended and continued through Kibo hut where I had a short rest, then reached Horombo hut at 4 p.m. After a good long rest at Horombo, day six was spent passing the moorland once more, enjoying the increasing warmth and richness of the mountain air. We arrived at the park entrance where we began our trip six days earlier.

In reflecting on my climb, the time I spent on Mount Kilimanjaro is something I will never forget. On the summit day I had never worked so hard for something in my life, but at the same time I felt a sense of peace and tranquility from the whole experience. I learned to be more patient in my life as climbing Kilimanjaro required patience: The mountain is unforgiving, and one must walk slowly to successfully make it to the top. I realized that every day is precious; don’t put off for tomorrow something you can do today.

Paul Greer is an associate professor in Health and Exercise Science at San Diego City College and coach of the San Diego Track Club--the largest running club in San Diego.

                                        

Set as favorite

Email This

Trackback(0)

TrackBack URI for this entry

Comments (0)

Write comment

You must be logged in to post a comment. Please register if you do not have an account yet.